Le Cornichon

It’s no surprise that the recently opened Le Cornichon starts you off with an amuse bouche of asparagus soup. Nothing “wow” about the idea, really. But the little cup manages to convey beauty in the plainest of terms. The king of vegetables needs very little pomp, after all. And here it’s steeped in heavy cream, supported by a few strands of bittersweet, caramelized onion — simple, yet luxurious.

Except for the part where you gaze out the window at a series of dumpsters, a visit to Le Cornichon is like a culinary stroll through the central Loire Valley in France.

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Sophisticated. Honest. Reasonably priced.

How many restaurants do you know of in Prague befitting that description? Not too many, huh? Me neither. That’s why I’m finding myself pretty tickled about Le Cornichon’s arrival on the local scene.

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Prague can sometimes offer some of the most enticing surprises to connoisseurs and lovers of the French culinary imagination. One of the latest downtown venues trying to build a name in an already rich landscape of French eateries, Le Cornichon follows the tradition of a classical cuisine and wine in an intimate atmosphere, yet at a reasonable price.

The spot, open since in March 2008, is seeking not only to recruit regular customers but also to offer high-class comfort to its guests. That’s why in July the restaurant is closing down for a partial renovation of its kitchen and cellar. From September, which is given as the latest date for reopening, Le Cornichon plans more than some refurbished back walls. The restaurant plans to hire a real French chef who is supposed to enrich the already existing menu with original flavors and design imagination. “You can try as much as you want with a local cook. They might know the recipe, they might do their best, but in their blood they don’t have the centuries of refinement and creativity that we’ll live to feature here,” said Vladimír Strnad, the owner of Le Cornichon.

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